It’s All in the Dip
barbecue, food, speedy’s barbecue, the barbecue center,
Plenty of communities like to brag about their particular kind of barbecue, but only one city justifiably lays claim to being the Barbecue Capital of the World: Lexington, N.C.
Where else will you find 150,000 enthusiasts gathered each October for that renowned pork pilgrimage, the Lexington Barbecue Festival? And how many other towns can boast more than 20 restaurants serving up tons of pork shoulder throughout the year?
“Lexington barbecue in general has a pretty good reputation,” says Roy Dunn, who, along with his brother Boyd, has been in the business since the early 1960s. The brothers’ restaurant, Speedy’s Barbecue, is decked out in nostalgic advertising signs, posters and pig-related memorabilia.
Located on state Highway 8, patrons can order classic pork shoulder barbecue sandwiches, or a plate or a tray, or a pound of Speedy’s pork perfection to go. Add to that slaw, beans, potato salad, rolls and hush puppies, and you’re good to go.
Lexington barbecue dates back to 1919, when the first barbecue restaurant was opened under a tent. Its popularity grew, and, says Sonny Conrad of The Barbecue Center, when fast food restaurants appeared, “we just moved on up the ladder with them.”
The secret to real Lexington barbecue is slow cooking and a vinegar-based basting sauce, locally referred to as dip, made with ketchup, but, please, no mustard, as is the case farther east.
Lean pork shoulder is the cut of choice, cooked for hours until it is fork-tender and shreddable. It is generally served chopped, with additional dip on the side.
“We cook ours on the pit and use hickory wood,” says Conrad, whose restaurant opened its doors in 1955. “We burn the wood down to coals and put the coals under the meat. We make our own dip – mostly ketchup, vinegar, salt, pepper, sugar and water – and try to keep it mild, not too hot.”
Like other eateries in Lexington, The Barbecue Center has a loyal following of customers who frequent his place, and who come to visit from out of town or even have barbecue shipped to them. The secret, Conrad says, is a combination of pit cooking and their special dip.
Dunn agrees that the dip is key. “Ours is the best,” he assures, but says he favors slow cooking in an electric cooker, which he says keeps the meat moist and minimizes shrinkage.
Both Conrad and Dunn participate in The Barbecue Festival, which takes place on Main Street in uptown Lexington. Along eight blocks, more than 400 exhibitors set up booths, and hundreds of artists and craftsmen take part in a juried show. Five stages offer continuous entertainment and music by local and nationally known artists, and Piglet Land, a special area for kids, offers rides and activities for the young crowd. Barbecue is served by local restaurants in three tents.
The annual festival, in its 25th year, is held in October, which has been dubbed Barbecue Month by Davidson County and the city of Lexington. Other planned events leading up to the festival include the Tour de Pig bicycle race, the 5K Hawg Run and the Hawg Shoot Air Rifle Tournament.
“It’s a busy day for all of us, and the restaurants are busy all day, but it’s a lot of fun,” says Dunn.
Story by Laura Hill
Photo by Ian Curcio
